But sadly, the book was incomplete with several references within the book to a second volume, which would help draft patterns for difficult figures - something that is not covered in the first volume. The second volume was due to come out in 2011, I think, but kept being delayed and just before Christmas the book was finally released. Needless to say, I immediately ordered it and was ecstatic when it arrived! And I was not disappointed!
So I decided to put together a little review for you. But non-German speakers, be warned, you may enjoy this review and get all excited about the book, but it is not (as of yet, hopefully) available in any other language but German. Sadly.
So, here it goes:
The second volume, entitled Maßschnitte und Passform: Schnittkonstruktion für Damenmode (meaning, Made-to-Measure Patterns and Fit: Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear) is entirely dedicated to drafting basic blocks for individual figures. Alterations to these blocks to create various styles are not covered. So, if you know pattern manipulation but struggle to make well-fitting basic blocks, that's the book to get.
In this sense it seems like a unique book. Normally, books that cover pattern drafting only address fitting blocks as a side note. I guess that's because pattern drafting is normally learnt by fashion students who study for the fashion industry and its standard sizing rather than making patterns for individual clients. And when you get a book on fitting, it's often addressed to home sewers and covers altering already existing patterns. A combination of learning how to make basic blocks and how to make them fit is somewhat unique and, off the top of my head, I can't think of a book that covers both these things. Can you?
Hmm, well, back to the book....
The book starts out with an analysis of good fit and common differences in individual figures, like posture and proportions.
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| The method for making a skirt pattern fit is the only one done by draping the block onto the wearer. This is illustrated by lots of colour photos. |
According to this book, not all figure variations can or should be corrected in a first draft. In other words, a block often has to be drafted to, what is referred to as, a 'balanced' or proportioned figure and is only adapted or 'optimized' after the initial basic draft is completed.
This concept is not entirely new to me. I discovered a long time ago that drafting a basic bodice block to an above B/C cup results in odd distortions of the front armhole, excess fabric at the neckline and a widened back. Therefore I have got accustomed to drafting blocks for myself as if I were a B/C cup and then altering them to a larger cup with the help of an FBA. This book suggests a similar method, only in a much more detailed, and comprehensive manner, allowing you to learn to recognize what throws an individual figure off balance and how to draft for these figures.
After covering drafting methods for each basic block, the author moves on to those adaptations or "optimizations" of already drafted blocks. This section is not only useful for modifying basic blocks to fit you better but also for adapting commercial patterns for a better fit. The information is very useful and certainly up there with some of the better pattern fitting books (i.e. Fit for Real People by Palmer/Pletsch, which still remains my all time favourite book on fitting).
In a final chapter the author shows you how to make an individual dress form, using water-activated paper tape. It seems like a complicated process, but one that might still give quite accurate results, despite only using DIY materials and tools.
These instructions are accompanied by a video you can watch on youtube. It's a video documenting the project with a German voice-over (presumably the author) explaining the process. I don't have time or patience for this sort of project at the moment, but would really like to give it a try some day.
The book also uniquely addresses disabilities, which I have never found in any drafting book before. For example, it includes a chapter on how to make comfortable, well-fitting trousers for people who are wheelchair-bound. This is a very interesting chapter, containing information that would be hard to find in any other drafting book.
The one thing I find annoying about the book is that a lot of the information in this book is already contained in the first volume and simply copied over into this book. It seems like both volumes were not planned well as a set. The same instructions for each basic block can already be found in the first volume, only without the instructions on how to optimize these blocks for individual figures.
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| Both my books |
It would have been better if this book had been published as a first volume, and then the other book could focus only on altering basic blocks to create different styles. So, essentially if you are interested in learning how to draft basic blocks for individual figures, you do not need the first volume at all. The second volume will suffice and is preferable. If you then want to learn how to adapt the blocks for different styles, including dart manipulation and added fullness, and collars, and pockets, etc., then you can get the first volume additionally.
I hope I haven't made this book sound too exciting for non-German speakers, as it is sadly not available in any other language but German. I would love for the book to be translated. I'd do it myself if copyright wasn't an issue. And, in case you wonder, whether you might get use out of the book even if you don't speak German. I doubt it. It is pretty complicated, more so than the first volume, and without any understanding of German, the book would make little sense.
But if you speak German, this book comes really highly recommend from yours truly. :)
Do any of you have this book or the first volume? What do you think?