As promised I'm posting a review of Islander Sewing Patterns today plus some more pictures of another Islander Sewing Pattern that I tested.
I tested a men's shirt, mostly for the instruction rather than the pattern. I've made a handful of men's shirts already, both for Mr. Starcross and my mum's husband, who are both very encouraging present-receivers, because they wear everything I make them.
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| My mum's husband in his new shirt |
I chose the Men's Easy Shirt pattern from the Islander Sewing men's shirt pattern range and as hoped definitely picked up a few good tricks and tips from the pattern instructions. I sew all my cuffs exclusively to these instructions now, but have a somewhat altered shirt collar attaching method. In any case, as also mentioned in my Jacket Express post, these patterns are great for learning and improving your sewing techniques as the instructions are somewhat different from other home sewing pattern instruction.
But now onto my full review:
REVIEW: Islander Sewing Systems Patterns
PATTERNS TESTED:
Jacket Express, Paper Pattern, $ 22.95
Men's Easy Shirt, Paper Pattern, $ 19.95
ABOUT THE PATTERN:
Islander Sewing Patterns are published by the American company Islander Sewing Systems and are only available as print patterns. The company does not have a large range of sewing patterns but carries some useful staples, particularly men's shirts, as well as the Jacket Express jacket, that has become popular through the Craftsy course "Sew Better Sew Faster" with Janet Pray.
MY NOTES:
INDUSTRY METHOD - As the name Islander Sewing Systems suggests Islander Sewing Patterns are touted as not simply offering up patterns but a sewing system along with it. This system, pioneered by Margaret Islander, is a sewing system that has been adapted for home sewers from industry sewing methods. The emphasis is on sewing fast and precise without any pins, just like in a factory. Both the Craftsy course run by Janet Pray and the patterns themselves have shown me a bunch of interesting improvements I have since made to my sewing: I certainly use fewer pins, I have a better idea of how to hold my fabric when feeding it into the sewing machine and, where ever it makes sense, I use smaller seam allowances from the get go. So all in all, I'm really happy from what I have learned from these patterns, as well as the Craftsy course.
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| I cut the yoke in two pieces for a chevron effect. |
INSTRUCTIONS -The instructions do not only guide you through the sewing steps of the pattern but teach you their industry method of sewing. As mentioned earlier, one of the reasons I wanted to sew a shirt from one of their patterns is that I wanted to see how their instructions suggest how to put together a men's shirt in the most efficient and pin-less manner. Their method was certainly somewhat different from other home sewing patterns and I was able to pick up some new tips and tricks for setting in collars and cuffs, etc.
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| Instructions even come with photos! |
The instructions are what I think make these patterns unique and worthwhile. They are not only instructions but also learning tools for picking up new methods and that's what I really enjoyed about sewing up both patterns.
SEAM ALLOWANCES - Since Islander Sewing Patterns are all based on the idea that you are going to use Islander Sewing System construction methods, which are meant to be based on industrial sewing techniques, their seam allowances are optimized to suit this method. Each seam allowance in the pattern is the most efficient and required width, rather than a standard 1.5cm as found in most home sewing patterns. This means some seam allowances are 6mm, some 9mm, some a different length, mostly narrower than 1.5cm, which eliminates unnecessary and time-consuming trimming.
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| I cut the cuffs and pocket on the bias |
I really like the idea of narrower seam allowances and have recently started cutting some allowances on other patterns I use or make myself shorter before I even start sewing. The benefits of which I have learned from Islander Sewing Patterns. However, if you want to use their patterns without following their sewing instructions the non-standardized seam allowances can get confusing as you will constantly have to look up how much seam allowance each seam is meant to have. So if you plan not to use the instructions, change the seam allowances to what is easiest for you, or note down all seam allowance widths on each pattern piece so you don't get confused while sewing.
STYLES - Unfortunately, Islander Sewing Patterns do not offer very many interesting styles. Except for perhaps another men's shirt, there is nothing in their range I would still like to sew. It would be really great if they expanded their pattern range and made it a little more modern.
PAPER PATTERNS - Islander Sewing Patterns are only available as printed patterns. They arrive in a clear plastic envelope. The instructions come in a little color-printed booklet and the pattern is printed on ordinary pattern tissue paper.
The company is based in the US and unfortunately their shipping prices to Europe are exorbitant. When I wanted to order a pattern from them I contacted them to ask for more reasonable shipping rates and they processed my order manually, charging me actual shipping costs, rather than the approx. $25 quoted on their website. I hope they will change this soon or else I suggest to contact them before you plan to order from outside the US.
CONCLUSION:
I feel like I'm reapeating myself but I was really happy with the quality of these patterns and particularly liked them as learning tools. Their styles I'm not so keen on so I probably won't be buying any new patterns soon. But I might make another shirt or jacket from the patterns I have. So, if you feel like learning something new, go for these patterns.
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For those of you who don't know yet: I have stopped using the inlinkz link-up tool for this challenge as I thought it was awkward and your reviews difficult to find in the muddle on my blog.
Instead I've opened a Pinterest board that you are happy to join with any of your reviews or projects related to this challenge of whatever month you please. I've added pins of some of you already who contributed links to earlier months (Hope that's ok with you!).