Thursday, June 27, 2013

Vintage Fair Curtain Dress

It was windy!

Last Sunday Mr. Starcross and me visited the Crikey! It's Vintage Fair in Killerton, which gave me the opportunity to finally make that Vintage-inspired dress I've been dreaming of making ever since I bought some left-over curtain material for 3 Euro at a charity flea market in Vienna. I love, love, love this fabric. It's so bright and the flowers look almost neon pink.


As with most of my handmade clothes these days I drafted the pattern myself. I've recently been obsessed with close-fitting kimono sleeve and bodice drafts. So I'm studying vintage drafting manuals to make up various kimono concoctions with gussets and inserts galore to give a fitted kimono look without compromising on arm movement. I mean it's always a plus when you can look good and move in what you are wearing :)


So this is my second study in gusseting and for you #nähnerds (= sewingnerds) out there I am, of course, providing you with a technical schematic of this design for your recreating pleasure.

Front Draft


Back Draft

This dress is super comfortable to wear. It feels fashionable but doesn't restrict movement in any way. Not too tight, not too loose. For the lining (unfortunately no pic there) I used a sheer and floaty and ultra-comfortable rayon material I sourced from an e-bay seller. I find it's difficult to find non-acetate lining locally and I just refuse to line breathable cotton dresses with a plastic lining. I mean you woudn't wear a plastic bin bag under your dress either, would you?


The lining is gorgeous but tough to work with and ended up stretching way out of shape. I just don't know how to tame those shear fabrics. Lining is always a troublesome matter. I guess that's why the stiff acetate is so popular.  

I leave you with this snippet of a feature on the Vintage Fair in Homes & Antiques, which captured me and Mr. Starcross doing our Jive moves. Can you find us?


Comments (5)

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Lovely! I Love that style of dress. And thanks for showing the seaming schematic; that really helps visualize how you put the dress together. I wonder if starching the lining fabric 'stiff' before you cut and sew, (to give it some body and keep it from moving all over) would help? You could then make it up, then rinse out the starch when it was together and attach it to your dress.
1 reply · active 613 weeks ago
I knew someone would appreciate the little schematic I made :) That starch idea is really good. I should try that next time I work with impossibly slippery fabric. Thank you!
What a wonderful flea market find! I scour flea markets every Sunday and never have as much luck as others have. Maybe I just dont have the eye for it. I do buy used bras so I can cut the underwire out of them and save them for swimsuit projects for my daughters.

Love that you have drafted your own pattern. I am not sure that I would be able to make it work but after seeing your guidelines I am more willing to try.
Your dress is lovely ! I also love the drawing of the pattern lines - thank you for taking the time to do it! I have a question concerning your side pieces (that look like like a princess seam)- are front and back side pieces actually two pieces joined at a side seam from the armhole to the waistline or is it one piece we are looking at? I can't tell....
1 reply · active 612 weeks ago
Oh, I knew someone would spot that :) Yes, you are right, it's a little unclear in my pics.

Those little u-turns above the bust and shoulder blade at the back turn down into the side seam. There are two side front pieces, two side back pieces, two mid-back plus attached sleeve pieces, divided by a zip, and one front piece with sleeves in one cut on the fold. Hope this helps :)

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