I discovered this book a while back in the library and have since fallen in love with it. Of all the pattern books I have worked with this is by far my favourite. The pattern drafting system used in this book is very similar to, or pretty much identical to, the M. Müller & Sohn pattern drafting book, which I reviewed in detail here on this blog a while back. The main difference between these two books is simply in clarity and layout.
Both books are written mainly for people in the industry or profession, but Hofenbitzer has somehow managed to only include those details that really seem to matter and has done so in a clear and understandable way with a wonderful layout and good and useful illustrations. M. Müller & Sohn's books can be confusing and overly detailed and oddly written, although they pretty much share the same content.
The other advantage this book has over the M. Müller & Sohn series is that this one book includes basic drafting instructions plus some variations on dresses, blouses, sleeves, jackets, skirts, trousers and a basic block for dresses and tops made out of elastic materials with no or very little ease. If you wanted this scope from M. Müller & Sohn you would have to buy three volumes at 126,80 € each. Hofenbitzer's book is only 49 € on the publishers' website.
The only downside to the book is that it is not complete, hence the title "Band 1: Grundlagen" (Volume 1: Basics). A second volume is being written as we speak and I have been harassing the publishers all year to tell me when it will be published. The latest news was, sadly, that the second volume won't be available until the end of 2013. What is missing in the book are more variations on the basic drafts (i.e. kimono sleeves are not discussed) and modifying or drafting blocks for various figure variations. Sometimes the author in the book refers to the second volume and asks you to look it up there, which is frustrating since the second volume is not available. However, even without the second volume the book is a goldmine. I can easily look up how to draft kimono sleeves in other books and basic block alterations are not as necessary since I am drafting to my own measurements, and if I need them I have plenty of books on fitting in my arsenal.
The publishers include a small preview of the book plus table of contents on their website, which gives you a good idea of the scope and layout of the book. Have a look here and tell me what you think. I believe everyone could work with this book, even non-German speakers with a dictionary at hand. I also love the measurement charts at the back of the book (you can see one in the preview), which I have copied and use as my go-to charts when I measure myself or others for pattern drafting.
Has anyone used this book before? What do you think? Is it the best book ever?
* By the way, in case anyone is wondering, I am not being paid to write this review, I'm just genuinely in love :)
Such a pity this book hasn't been translated, since you speak so highly of it. I know very basic German but would never buy it...
ReplyDeleteI love German drafting but I won't be picking this up if it doesn't get translated to English. I have so many good options now that it's just not worth struggling over. I love the Lucia Mors de Castro book (it's very limited in the number of designs but totally worth it in the awesomeness of the basic blocks), her system is based on the M&S system and the basic idea is to get you into making your own stuff off the basic pattern rather than hand-holding. I have both her books and am totally loving them..
ReplyDeleteYes, I can see that this book is not really an option for non-German speakers. I can't see it being translated any time too, which is really a shame. Maybe I should pitch it to the publishers :)
DeleteTotally! I really think European publishers and software developers should make more efforts on capturing the English-speaking market.. Feel the same about pattern making software and grading software *sigh*
DeleteYes yes yes... I have been using this book for making a basic bodice and pants. The main challenge is to decide which ease (the PK) you need for the kind of garment you are making. I made mistakes because I used the wrong PK for the kind of garment I want, and I added the wrong ease adjustments.
ReplyDeleteLessons learned in using this book:
1) decide carefully which PK you need for your garment
2) measure carefully the additional ease needed for the particular PK
3) check and recheck your calculation to make sure they are correct
Mistakes I made were mainly because of careless calculation. I really like this book for its extensiveness and affordability. Will definitely buy the second volume.
Katzies.
I've chosen the wrong PK before too. You really need to experiment a lot until you get that right. Tried making a shirt dress with far too little ease. Didn't turn out so great :)
DeleteYou make this book so interesting that I almost buy it straight away. The only thing that holds me back, is that I almost don't draw clothes for myself, at least not anymore, after my maternity leave is over. I have mostly made patterns for childrens clothing (Aldrich, and to some extent Armstrong),and still do a little bit of that. Well, the point is, I have Aldrich/women and Armstrong in my bookshelf. I love to browse them to learn the principles and seek inspiration. Is there any point in buying this book as well? Thanks for writing reviews!
ReplyDeleteWell, if you don't really draft much anymore, I think Armstrong is fine. There are not as many variations in Hofenbitzer's book but mostly instructions on how to draft the basic slopers. For inspiration I like Adele Margolis's book "How to make your own dress patterns" best. It's also a lot cheaper.
DeleteThank you!
DeleteBand 2 is up since oktober 2013. Best book I have seen about working with proportional drafts to personal body issues.
ReplyDeletelg
heidi
Absolutely agree, Heidi! Just got that a couple of months ago and love it
Delete