Today is Me-Made-Mittwoch and after a long time I finally get to rejoin all the lovely seamstresses who showcase their Wednesday outfits via Cat-and-Kascha's blog. I will also grab this opportunity to write another bilingual post - which I haven't done in ages - because, frankly, it's quite a lot of work. I'm really amazed at how some bloggers can keep up the bilingual posting regularly and don't understand how they find the time and energy.
Heute ist mal wieder Me-Made-Mittwoch bei Cat-und-Kascha und ich schaffe es endlich wieder mal mitzumachen. Diese Gelegenheit nutze ich natürlich auch gleich um wieder einen zweisprachigen Beitrag zu schreiben, was ich schon seit Eiwgkeiten nicht gemacht habe, weil es ganz ehrlich ziemlich viel Arbeit ist. Ich bin beeindruckt von Bloggern, die es scahffen, regelmäßig zweisprachig zu posten und verstehe nicht, wo sie die Zeit und Energie dazu finden.
Today's dress is made with my recent M. Müller & Sohn block and is pretty much unaltered except for a deeper neckline with keyhole. Although I had made a muslin from the block first, it is quite another thing to wear the muslin/pattern. I think only through wearing a sort of test garment for a bit can you see if it's really comfortable, doesn't ride up awkwardly, wrinkle in unexpected places and know if it still needs tweaking.
Das heutige Kleid habe ich mit meinem neuen M. Müller & Sohn Schnitt gemacht, den ich selbst "geschnittzeichnet" habe. Ich habe zu diesem Schnittzeichensystem auch unlängst auf meinem Blog eine ausführliche (jedoch nur auf Englisch) Rezension geschrieben, die ihr hier, hier und hier finden könnt. Dieses Kleid entspricht dem Grundschnitt fast eins zu eins außer dem tieferen Ausschnitt mit Schüsselloch (sagt man das so?) und Masche. Obwohl ich vor diesem Kleid den Grundschnitt als Probekleid in weißer Baumwolle getestet habe, ist es doch etwas ganz anderes einen Schnitt oder Probekleid einen ganzen Tag lang zu tragen. Erst da merkt man, wo noch was zieht oder drückt oder unschöne Falten wirft und doch nochmal geändert werden muss.
Overall I'm really happy with the fit. I've worn the dress several times already and it's quite comfy.The only change I have made to my block is that I widened the sleeves at my upper arm. I didn't quite have enough ease there which made the sleeves feel a bit tight, but other than that I like my block and have already used it for another project I will share with you soon.
Im Großen und Ganzen bin ich mit der Passform zufrieden. Ich habe das Kleid nun schon einige Male getragen und es trägt sich sehr angenehm. Die einzige nachträgliche Änderung, die ich noch am Schnitt gemacht habe, war Weite zum oberen Ärmel dazuzugeben. Die Bewegungszugabe an dieser Stelle war nicht recht groß genug und der Ärmel hat sich daher etwas eng angefühlt. Ansonsten bin ich mit meinem Grundschnitt sehr zufrieden und ich habe ihn auch schon für ein weiters Projekt verwendet. Bald mehr davon!
Gefällt mir gut, Dein Kleid, den Schnitt solltest Du wirklich öfter benutzen. MIR wäre es in dem feinen Stöffchen nur zu frisch gewesen...
ReplyDeleteGreets,
Liese
Tolles Kleid und sooo schöne fotos. Wirklich ein Traum. LG Kuestensocke
ReplyDeleteDas Kleid und der Schnitt sehen toll aus.
ReplyDeleteLg Mathilda
I love the neckline on this dress.
ReplyDeleteThat is a really lovely dress, and I am so impressed that you CAN blog in two languages! I wish I could!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your kind congratulations too :)
Congratulations on the dress. I am also interested in pattern making and keen to try the Muller Sohn system. Unfortunately, I speak English only. I have the books by Lucia Mors de Castro (but have yet to try the draft). Your posts mention that the M&S system allows you to deal with the full bust during the draft. Lucias books don't cover that aspect. I would love you to do a post on the FBA part of the M&S approach when you have time!
ReplyDeleteWould a non-English speaker have a chance at understanding the M&S book on bodices from diagrams only or is it too obscure? I am currently learning an Italian system using rulers with proportions based on upper chest and/or hip dimensions. Obviously full bust requires additional work.
Thanks for your comment. I don't know if I can cover the aspects of how M&S deal with full busts here on my blog because it is a part of how to draft the pattern and I would therefore have to cover their entire draft. As much as i would love to do that, I don't think M&S would approve if I made their system available on this blog :)
DeleteRegarding the German used in their books, I'm copying my reply to a similar comment last week. Hope this helps:
No, I would definitely not say that the German in these pattern books is straightforward. In fact, their instructions are somewhat difficult to understand. I usually like working my way through books and teaching myself but with this book I was really happy to have a tutor. Since I have had the basics explained to me it has become a lot easier. But the drawings and instructions themselves are not very reader-friendly and certainly not for the faint of heart. If you want to get into the German drafting style with a German book but don't speak German and only have a friend or dictionary to help you, I would recommend you get the book "Bekleidung" by Guido Hofenbitzer: http://www.europa-lehrmittel.de/titel-58-58/bekleidung_schnittkonstruktion_fuer_damenmode-543/
The book uses almost the same system but the instructions and illustrations are so much simpler, and could perhaps even be followed with only very little German. This book has some drawbacks as well, particularly as it is only the first volume of two (and the second will only be published towards the end of the year) but it is still invaluable and a lot cheaper than the M&S books. I am planning a review of this book for my blog but haven't gotten around to it yet.
Hope this info helps.
Thank you for your answer and the link. Can you tell me, is that book closer to the Lucia de Castro method or this scandinavian site, which is apparently also similar to M&S?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.leenas.com/English/draw_bodice.html
I started working on Lucia's draft tonight!
The leena method doesn't look like M&S, but I haven't tried this method. the bodice sloper in the book Bekleidung are almost identical to M&S and based on their system.
DeleteStephanie,
ReplyDeletethe dress looks really wonderful, even more so knowing that you drafted it from scratch using M&S and that it fits perfectly. Since my last failed muslin (due to incorrect ease), I haven't started a new one, but plan to do so, soon.
mcphicks:
There is a forum out there for cutter and tailor that explains the German used in Müller & sons, which will also help you tracing the steps in Guido's Bekleidung. I am using that before graduating to M&S more expensive books.... (I HIGHLY recommend Bekleidung and I use Google translate whenever I stumble:))
Katzies
Hi Katzies
DeleteI was aware of the Cutter and Tailor site and that is how I came to be interested in the Muller Sohn system. I have since bought the Hofenbitzer book and the good diagrams and google translation get me by. This book mentions cup sizes (determined by comparing full bust and underbust) but I can't find the part that explains how you draft the for bigger than a B cup. If you have a larger than standard bust, your back width will be less that the 'standard' charts. If front bust and armhole are calculated on the overall bust measurement, the back plus armhole plus front comes up a bit short of the overall required. It was suggested that I make an FBA to the draft (similar to Palmer Pletsch) but I was hoping to 'draft it in'. I need a teacher in Sydney, Australia.....