Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Experiments in Jersey: The Palmer/Pletsch Faux Wrap Dress


This is a dress I made just before Christmas last year and I have worn it tons since. The dress forms a part of my ongoing experimentation with jersey fabric, where I never quite know if I hate or love jersey. On the one hand jersey has a lot advantages like it doesn't fray, is quite forgiving when it comes to fit and is easy to care for and comfortable to wear. But then again jersey has an evil side to it: cutting it is a nightmare, removing seams is even more impossible and the fabric seems to change and shift all the time. And my jersey finishing techniques are also not quite up to scratch.

I guess so far I have discovered that the best way of working with jersey fabric for me is just to accept imprecision. You can't measure jersey down to every millimeter or rely on it keeping its shape. So in a way it's a good exercise for combating perfectionism and "Just let it be" seems to work wonderfully as a jersey sewing mantra for me. And really, most of the time, even with all the shape-shifting qualities of jersey, the results are pretty decent. So, no reason to worry and fret. 


This dress turned out pretty decent as well. It's a good shape and it's super comfy and with a slip underneath and maybe even a turtleneck when it gets extra cold it has proven to be a perfect dress for winter. The pattern is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern by McCall's (M5974) and it comes with the tagline "The Perfect Knit Dress". And to be honest the dress style is pretty perfect for me. 


I made version D (the turquoise one), which is a faux wrap dress and I just love how the pattern envelope shows this dress on a slightly fuller figured woman. Maybe that's why I was attracted to this version in the first place. But I can definitely see myself making some of the others as well,  maybe a version for summer. If you want to sew this pattern note that the dress pattern instruction states that you should use a zip with this dress but really you don't need one in my opinion. I have never heard of using a zip with stretch jersey. Sure, if I use double knit or something very stable, but ordinary cotton knit jersey?! And how would I even attach this zip properly?! I'm sure it would look horrible.

Have any of you made this dress? Have you had trouble with the fickle nature of jersey? Have you used a zipper in the dress? Would love to hear about and see your results or recommendations on dealing with jersey.

7 comments:

  1. Lovely dress. I have the pattern, but never made it. If I were to make it I wouldn't put in a zipper since the neck opening is very wide.

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  2. Like Sheila, I have the pattern but haven't turned it into a 3D item. Your dress looks really great, but I do hate the way wrap dresses need an extra garment under for modesty.

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  3. Hi, Glad you like the pattern. You don't need a zipper with a jersey for sure. McCall's was being cautious in the type of knit used, so added the zipper. You can always change instructions, and even the design, to suit you. You look full busted and if you did the alteration, you probably could wear it without the top under it. The full bust alteration lines are on the tissue and it would make the wrap cross higher. If the tissue comes to withing 1/2" from the CF, you are ok without a full bust alteration for a jersey knit. But if the tissue comes 1 1/2" from your CF, I would alter 1". Golly, I feel like I am in teaching mode. Sorry. Pati Palmer

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    1. Thank you for your tips! Yes, I did do an FBA (as always) and I can sort of wear it without anything underneath, but it's still a bit revealing I find. The full bust alterations lines were very handy but it was a little difficult to change and distribute the tuck locations equally after the FBA. But I managed :)

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  4. What a lovely dress! I can see why it has become one of your favourites!
    I like sewing with jersey and knits, because they are so easy to fit. And I wouldn't bother with a zip in a stretch-knit dress, it won't be needed in most cases you can pull it over your head.

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  5. Found your post via a Google search for a pattern for a faux-wrap dress. Yours turned out fabulous. I'm going to have to give this a try, also without a zipper after reading the above comments. I'm thinking maybe using a sapphire blue 'a la Kate Middleton's engagement picture, and a print because I tend to stick to solids in my wardrobe.

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