This time around I want to do things in a slightly more orderly fashion. I want to start with a sloper that I can actually keep and use over and over again for all my patterns. So, at the moment I'm on a quest for this elusive perfect sloper pattern. Does it exist?
This is what I have come up with so far. I'd really love to get some help from you on what alterations I still need to make. Is there anything I don't see? So far, it's better than most slopers I've come up with in the past but a few alterations are still necessary.
At the front I have some major fabric surplus at the neckline. I can easily tuck away 3 cm there. But how? What went wrong? The bust darts also look a bit funny at the side. This may be normal as my bust/waist dart is huge. I'm unsure about changing anything in this area. What do you think?
The side view shows clearly that I have to make the back darts a lot bigger than they are but other than that I think it looks fine.
The back looks good to me too, except for the gaping in the back.
Any other suggestions? What do you think? Should I proceed with this sloper once I have changed the neckline and back darts? It's almost too good to be true.
I think it looks really good, but I was wondering about the neck thing as well since I always seem to have the same problem. I just found this advice for Gaping Neckline at http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html which I thought you might want to take a look at if you already haven't. :)
ReplyDeleteSo far so good, but I know when you're looking for perfection, this isn't perfect enough... Know everything about it, as commercial patterns rather scare me now. Regarding the front: I think you'll have to raise/shape the shoulders and drape the fabric more towards the arms, and then changing the neckline. I guess you could also have a dart from shoulder to bust point. And the back piece: I would consider having two darts in the back. That might help and "even out" everything you have to remove.
ReplyDeleteI can't help you with specific tips but I just returned to sewing and have started on slopers and muslins to help me with pattern alterations and fitting my garments properly. I found some very helpful sites with clear and detailed instructions. You can check out the links via two entries in my new blog:
ReplyDeletehttp://changesblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/how-to-make-sloper-vintage-sewing.html and
http://changesblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/more-on-slopers-and-muslins.html. I hope they help.
Thank you for sharing your sewing adventures. They are inspiring.
How exciting! You'll be so pleased when you get it to fit perfectly. Will change your life. Hrmmm... the bust darts look fine to me! Maybe once you've fixed the back darts it will look better at the front.
ReplyDeleteHi Stephanie,
ReplyDeleteI have a question for you. What source did you use to create this sloper? Did you use a book, go to a class, etc.?
Rebekah
http://www.artandneedlework.blogspot.com
Because all shaping is swung into one massive dart, the side bodice is practically on the bias, and is stretching/distorting. I would go for a bodice block that has a waistline dart and a side seam bust dart (or shoulder dart), and you will have less fitting obstacles. Maybe even half a size bigger - a block should be fitted, but not tight.
ReplyDeleteAlso, I think you should lower the bust point so that it finishes 2cm below your bust point/nipple.
Good luck!