Sunday, January 17, 2010

Design Inspiration: Lena Hoschek


Picture taken from designmonat.at

My latest fashion inspiration is the Austrian designer Lena Hoschek. Lena Hoschek is originally from Graz, Austria, but studied Fashion Design in Vienna. After graduation she did an eight-months internship with Vivienne Westwood in London. According to an article about her on the austrianfashion.net Hoschek was very surprised to see how differently pattern construction was approached at Vivienne Westwood. Apparently squares are cut and modified with slits and notches and then made up into patterns. This seems very interesting but difficult to grasp and I would like to find out more about this intriguing method of pattern construction, which seems to be more about draping onto a form rather than flat pattern cutting, because how else could you find out how to manipulate your mountain of squares if not on a dress form. Hmmm. Alas, I couldn't find anything about this on the interwebs.

Lena Hoschek's designs are very Vintage inspired, particularly by the New Look of the 50s. She also loves a good old Dirndl and likes to incorporate traditional Dirndl elements into her designs. Curvy models, tattoos, Rock’n’Roll and Dita von Teese are equally prominent inspirations in her designs and all of these seem to go together beautifully in her collections.

I have been coveting some of her pieces for a while. Here are some of my favorites from her more recent collections, as seen on her homepage:
 





I would love to draft some of her pieces and sew them up myself. I am particularly fond of the big, slightly rectangular neckline with the collar, which she uses in some of her dresses and jackets. I am also a fan of the high-waisted skirts and of her interesting blouse designs. I am planning to make some Lena Hoschek inspired pieces this spring. Maybe I’ll start with something a little easier like a high-waisted skirt, or the yellow somewhat 40s inspired top, which looks beautiful in this shot from Fashion Week in Berlin:


Picture taken from vogue.de

Since she has a shop in Vienna I was thinking I could show up in her shop pretending I was a Bobo with mountains of disposable income and try on some of her pieces. I should make sure not to forget a pair of big bug-eyed glasses and a designer purse to go with the Bobo ensemble.

For more on Lena Hoschek, check out her homepage or a video of her most recent collection presented at Berlin Fashion Week and pictures thereof which you can find here.

For those of you who can read German, you can find an article about her here and an interview here.

14 comments:

  1. I can definitely see the Vivienne Westwood influence. Thanks for pointing out this designer - she has really interesting pieces.

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  2. Have to say I'm inspired by her pieces too. Clearly one to watch. With regards to the sewing squares, I'm fairly sure I read an article about using rectangles to create a block. I think it was taken from one of Simon Henry's books, of which he has two; Little Black Dress, and The Party Dress. Can't swear to it, but I'm fairly sure. Like your blog by the way. :)

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  3. Oooh, great stuff! I'd never heard of her - thanks for posting this!

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  4. She's FABULOUS! What beautiful clothes! I make some of my things in a Vivienne Westwoody way. I just get cheap crappy fabric and cut it in random shapes (circles and squares I my favourites) and then drape it on my dress maker's dummy. Then you can pin darts in and draw on the fabric and then use it as a pattern. Often I just cut slits in the fabric to make more interesting designs. I've done a tutorial for a really easy skirt that I made using this method:http://mirth-thehouseof.blogspot.com/2009/02/diy-draped-pencil-skirt-part-2.html
    more pictures here: http://mirth-thehouseof.blogspot.com/2009/02/more-diy-draped-pencil-skirt.html

    I might do a tutorial for my method. hehe you give me heaps of ideas for posts :)

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  5. Wow I have never heard of her but those clothes are amazing. Thanks for the tip, I will definitely be watching her!

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  6. Ouh, I'm inspired! It's really funny, just today I read an interview with Vivienne Westwood in a Swedish fashion magazine and I was surprised to learn that she doesn't use patterns but drapes squares like you desicribed. Very interesting, I'll have to check out Lily's skirt (and future tutorial!).
    Ms Westwood actually said that she thought she would have been a better designer if she had studied pattern construction, but then it wouldn't have been the same... and I love her work!
    I really like the Lena Hoscheck-designs you posted, especially the brown suit that I LOVE (jackets that style seem to turn up everywhere these days, I wonder if it's a sign that I should really make me one...).

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  7. If you find a link to how Vivienne Westwood drapes her pieces please pass it on because I think she is incredible! What is a bobo? I've never heard of that term.

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  8. These are wonderful designs! Love the vintage look.

    Have you checked out the sewing links over at www.WeAllSew.com? Patterns, tutorials, links to other sewers on the web, and a great list of sewing chariteis.

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  9. The Party Dress. Can't swear to it, but I'm fairly sure. Like your blog by the way. :)

    Work from home India

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  10. Carolyn, a bobo (BOurgeouis BOhemian) is a term used for a rich/upper middle class person, who is still sort of bohemian or who think of themselves as bohemian, or counter-culture and anti-mainstream, eating soy food and watching independent movies and dressing hipsterish. I think of Bobos as kind of hipsters, only more successful and moer affluent. The term was apparently first coined by David Brooks in 2000 in his book "Bobos in Paradise". Here is a link to an entry on his book on Wikipedia. You can also find both hipster and bobo in the urban dictionary online. It is possible that Bobo is really only used in Europe. I'm not sure about this.

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  11. Wow, isn't her stuff fab! (and the fabrics!!) Can't wait to look up her website. That peplum suit is gorgeous, as are the skirts, and that pink dress with kitties, and... must go to bed now, it's nearly 1am, but tomorrow...

    Bobo is also used in France (bourgeois bohême). Never knew it was used elsewhere!

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  12. That's it. I have to track down that grey skirt. Thanks for introducing me to this designer!

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  13. Hi Stephanie,

    My name is Erika and I'm currently working on a project with www.WeAllSew.com.

    We want to feature a link to your blog next week on We All Sew.

    We All Sew is dedicated to inspiring sewers by gathering the best stuff on the web all in one place. Visit the Sew to Serve page to connect with sewing charities and organizations that need sewing help.

    We’ll be featuring you as a WeAllSew.com Favorite Blog all next week, and would love it if you would check out We All Sew for yourself.

    Please let me know if you have any questions, or if you would not like to be featured through a link on WeAllSew.com.

    Thanks so much,
    Erika

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  14. thanks for the opportunity to admire these crisp and tidy designs! maybe my adjectives are a lil awkward but I couldnt find anything better to express my admiration, the lines go straight to the core! :)

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