We have all our preparation done and all our pieces are cut and now ready for sewing. Woohoo! If you have missed the previous instalments have a look at the links below so you can catch up if you wish:
Announcing the BurdaStyle Sew-Along
BurdaStyle Sew-Along Part 2: FBA, Preparing All Pattern Pieces & Cutting Out
SEWING UP THE BODICE
Today we will sew together our bodice. I am not strictly following the BurdaStyle instructions but am using my own tried-and-tested techniques and sewing sequences. Much of the way I sew is guided by the idea of unit sewing.
This means I will try to finish as much as I can on a small unit before joining it to a bigger piece, or unit. For example, I will finish the bodice completely before joining it to the skirt. It would be silly to sew up the whole dress and then finish the neckline and armholes last. There would be too much bulk and my pieces would no longer lie flat. It's always best to have small and relatively flat pieces as it makes sewing so much easier.
So, first off I'm sewing the bodice back and front together at the shoulder seams. If you have decided to cut your front in two pieces and not on the fold as I have, you can first sew the two fronts together along the centre front.
Before moving on to any pressing or trimming or neatening, I will save time by also sewing both the neck facings and armhole facings together at the shoulder seams.
I like to sew steps like these in a chain. It saves thread and time:
Next we'll press all seams apart and neaten the shoulder seams of the bodice only, as well as the outside edge of the neckline facing. The rest does not need to be neatened.
I use my overlocker/serger to do this work for me. If you don't own one, you can use an overcasting stitch on your sewing machine.
Next we'll combine bodice and neckline facing units. Lay your facing right side to right side onto the neck opening of the bodice, matching shoulder seams and centre back and centre front. Mark your stitching line for the front neck edge. This will help to create and accurate seam.
Stitch around the neckline edge at 1.5 cm. Then reinforce the front neckline with another line of stitching exactly on top of the first line. Then trim and clip your neckline seam allowance.
Don't be scared of trimming and snipping. Once you have reinforced your stitching in the front, you are fine. Trim and snip with confidence. If you don't, you'll never be able to neatly turn the neckline.
Next, press and understitch the neckline. Don't know what understitching is? Have a read of this great tutorial on the Sewaholic blog! I managed to understitch all the way around the neckline, even into the V at the front. Then I pressed everything.
The next step is entirely optional but I love it, because I hate floppy necklines. I pinned my neckline facing flat, and pinned around the edge of it, so I can see where the edge of the facing runs on the right side of the garment.
Then I drew a line in with a vanishing marker.
I then sewed all around the edge of the neckline facing from the right side slowly, feeling the edge of the facing through to the right side while sewing. This neatly and firmly holds that annoying facing in place and also looks relatively sporty and decorative on the front. For this kind of dress I find this finishing appropriate. What do you think?
Next, we'll finish the armhole facing in much the same way. Pin the armhole facing around the armhole, matching shoulder seams, and stitch at 1.5 cm.
Then understitch. Remember undestitching?
Now we are ready to join up the side seams of the bodice and then press apart.
And last we neaten the edges of both the side seam and outside armhole facing edge. And as with the neckline I have chosen to topstitch the armhole facings in place from the right side.
Tada, our bodice is done and looking neat from both the inside and outside. What do you think?
Our bodice is now finished and ready to be attached to our skirt. I'll show you how to sew and shirr the skirt in the next post. Happy sewing!