I decided to start with the Pin-Up Girls Classic Bra because it has fewer pieces than the Shelley Bra, and might give me a good idea of fit before I move onto the Shelley Bra.
Starting off I traced the pieces for my size. This was more challenging than expected. According to the instructions of the Classic Bra and my measurements I should be making a bra in a size 38E. I am a 34G with every brand of bra I buy. This was confusing. Should I really go two band sizes up and three cup sizes down? I stuck with my gut instinct and traced off a 34G regardless of what the pattern suggested. Bad idea? We'll see.
Before I cut my fabric I pinned the paper cup pieces together and at that stage I was already doubting my decision.
The cup looks huge. But from previous bra making experience I know that the cup, before properly inserted, does have a tendency to look big. So I stuck with the G cup regardless. If it really turns out too big I can always make it smaller, but it would be difficult to make it larger.
Despite a growing stash of bra making supplies I still find it easiest to start off with a white set, because I have all the supplies. I cut out strong powernet for the back band. My other pieces (strap, bra cup pieces and cradle) I cut out off both a rigid nylon bra liner and a more decorative layer of very light-weight polyester with shiny small polka dots. The bra liner on its own does not look very nice, so I thought a decorative layer might improve the look of the bra.
The best way of working with two layers in a bra I have found is basting the layers together before starting any sewing at all.
This has proven to be the most accurate way in the past. It looks like a lot of work but really isn't. The stitching doesn't have to be neat at all. I like to stitch not too far inside the seam allowance, so the stitching can be pulled out easily afterwards. I also used silk sewing thread and a small sharp needle. Both pass easily through the rigid nylon, leave no marks and the silk thread virtually does not tangle.
Next I sewed the cup and strap pieces together and topstitched both seams as per instructions. I did, however, add seam tape (just a thin strip of bra liner) to the cup seam before topstitching.
That's what I learned to do in the bramaking course I took in London and seems a clever idea because the seam can't split and there is no gap between the pressed apart cup pieces.
After attaching the back band to the cradle, I sewed the bra cups in. This was no trouble at all. They went in smoothly.
I added wire channelling, and then stitched the bottom band elastic on.
If you are wondering, I am working on a Bernina 1005 and I am using a Microtex 80/12 needle, which I love to use for bra making and all fine and slippery fabric.
At this stage I'm suspecting that I might have some trouble with my chosen fabric. My cup fabric has no give at all. I wonder if the cup will ever be able to conform smoothly to the bust with this much rigidity in the fabric. At the moment things do look somewhat pointy. Hmmm.
So the band elastic is in, and guess what, among all my bra supplies I realized I didn't have appropriate elastic to finish off the armhole. Grrr. I have already ordered more supplies from the Sewing Chest - admittedly a little more than the elastic I'm missing - and will have to wait until this arrives to continue with the bra. Luckily, I'm working on so many projects at a time that I can easily busy myself with some other project in the meantime.
I'll keep you posted on my bra progress. Happy Sewing!