Sunday, February 26, 2012

German-style Pattern Drafting PLUS a question for you: What pattern drafting systems do you use?

My newest pattern obsession is the German pattern drafting system M. Müller & Sohn. I've been experimenting with their pattern drafting system for a couple of months now and have taken a very brief private course with a teacher here in Vienna to properly learn the basics of this system. I'd like to introduce this system to the sew-o-sphere as it seems to be a well known and respected system by professionals in the industry (not only in the German-speaking world) but is not very popular with home sewers at all. This needs to be remedied :)

Before I write anymore about their system let me just warn you that this system is German and their textbooks are therefore naturally written in German. Unfortunately only one of their textbooks (Metric Patternmaking for Jacket and Coats with sleeve/bodice combinations) is available in English and just like all their other textbooks it's pricey.


However (don't despair!), there is a very reasonable pattern drafting book on the market which is largely based on the M. Müller & Sohn system: Patternmaking in Fashion by Lucia Mors de Castro. This book is by no means as comprehensive as the M. Müller & Sohn series and it doesn't purport to be either but it contains instructions for drafting basic skirt, dress and sleeve slopers very similarly to the M. Müller & Sohn system. So, if you are interested in trying out their system for yourself, this book is a good and reasonable introduction into, let's say, German-style drafting and it's also a trilingual edition in English, French and German. Yeah!



The reason I'd like to write a bit about the M. Müller & Sohn system here on my blog is because I think it's a very good system that many of you might find useful if you like drafting your own patterns. I have really come to prefer their system over let's say Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear or Natalie Bray's Dress Pattern Designing book, which I had both been using for a while. The thing that bugs me about most pattern drafting systems is the inaccuracy and obscurity of the system. While M. Müller & Sohn's system is still quite obscure it certainly is not inaccurate and that's what I love about it. So far I have only been experimenting with their textbook on dresses and blouses.


They also have one for jackets and coats and another one for trousers and skirts. But drafting an accurate fitted bodice sloper is what I think is most challenging and a thorough system makes this process a lot more reliable. Generally I find that drafting skirts is a breeze whatever system you use.

And there literally seem to be hundreds of different systems available around the world. I also find there is a huge gap between what is available for home sewers in terms of pattern books and what is used in colleges or by professionals. Since M. Müller & Sohn is a hugely important system for professionals and used in many fashion colleges it is certainly more accurate than some pattern drafting books which are geared solely towards home sewers. But before I go into the specific pros and cons that I have found when using M. Müller & Sohn and other systems in a follow-up post, I'd really be interested to know what pattern books and systems you use.

Do you draft your own patterns? If so, what books or resources do you use? What books or systems are used in fashion colleges or by professionals in your area? I'd really love to know more about how people draft patterns all around the world.

16 comments:

  1. Hi! (I haven't commented here before, but have been reading your blog for some time.)

    How cool that want to share pattern drafting stuff, I love that. I have a couple of pattern drafting books, the one I've used for actually making a bodice block was the Aldritch-book you mentioned. If there actually is system to the obscure instructions, I would love to know more.

    In addition I have a norwegian/danish book, Pattern Cutting på D.C. Lo (just got that recently and haven't used it for any drafting yet), a book on draping and a couple of others.

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    1. Hello Kjersti,

      Thanks for commenting here on my blog. I've been trying to find the book "Pattern Cutting på D.C. Lo" that you mention on the internet but cannot find any information on it. Could you send me a link or let me know where I could find it. I speak Norwegian so I'd really be interested in having a look at this book. Also what books on draping do you use? Are they any good? I'd love to know if you care to share. I'm sorry I'm so nosy :)

      Tusen takk og hjertelig hilsen,

      Stephanie

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  2. This is so interesting, I'd love to know more about this method and how it's different from others!
    I am too lazy to draft my own patterns, and I also have a small (ok, huge) addiction to buying patterns. But I want to get there, I bought J.Armstrong's "Pattermaking for fashion design" a few months ago, but still haven't been in the right mind set to tackle it.

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  3. I read somewhere that German pattern making, though not visually pleasing, is the best form of clothes engineering. So I am not surprised by your preference for the german pattern making system. I have been looking for the book by Lucia Mors de Castro, but all those I have seen are still soooooooooooooo expensive. So I am waiting for my lucky day when I will be able to see a moderately priced copy.

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    1. Hi Dibs,

      Thanks for your comment! On amazon the book is strangely not available or only in expensive copies but e-bay, for example, has cheap copies: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Basic-Patternmaking-Fashion-Lucia-Mors-Castro-/220733709175

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  4. I started pattern drafting about three years ago. Never have I made a sloper from the ground up, I've always started with a pre-drawn sloper that was created by a company called String Code Designs. I then altered the sloper to fit my design and my body measurements. That's my approach which I believe a lot of people in the US are doing.

    I am, however, incredibly excited to see what the German system is. I've never heard of it and am willing to give something new a try! Because, like you, I won't to know as much as I can about this subject.

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  5. I am learning to draft on my own using Mueller and Sohn system via a book by Guido Hofenbitzer "Bekleidung: Schnittkonstruktion fuer Damenmode" (I read German). This book is more affordable than Mueller and Sohn original, and much more detailed than Lucia Mors, which I bought, tried and chucked (I bought BOTH of her books. They drove me crazy and sorry, I don't recommend them).

    I have drafted bodice patterns and made slopers from Hofenbitzer's book, but for some reason, the sleeve is never quite on the shoulder line. I made numerous slopers with various ease (what he terms as PK, I tried PK 7 and PK 4) to check if they would fit, and I still have problems with how the sleeve sits on the shoulder (they are always off the shoulder line). No one nearby where I live who understands Mueller and Sohn system, so I am left on my own wit to figure it out. Snif snif snif (crying :~( ). (I would loooooove it if you can share us your adventure in making slopers using M&S system. Tips, tricks, etc. That would help "orphans" like me....)

    You are very lucky, Stephanie! :) I envy you for the opportunity to learn M&S drafting system with a real person!

    Katzies

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  6. Woo, so glad I found you, I've been scouring the webs for Muller and Sohn's system for years but everything is in German! I have the Lucia Mors de Castro book (love it-I've reviewed it on my blog) but didn't know about the English version of Jackets and Coats. Will have to pick that up. Thanks for sharing these!
    PS you might want to install disqus or something similar so non-blogger users can comment (OpenID doesn't work) while retaining their cross-platform identities and keeping track of comment responses and trackbacks.

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  7. There is a Russian Dressmaking Magazine АТЕЛЬЕ, that preaches Muller and Sonh's system and gives great instructions on applying it on practice in every issue. I've seen garments made using it and they all seem to have perfect fit! I'd love to try it out myself- I found your reviews very helpful!

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    1. Thanks for letting me know about АТЕЛЬЕ. I can read Russian, sort of, so I'd be really interested in trying this magazine. Do you know where this magazine can be ordered? Thanks.

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    2. http://www.nasha-pressa.de/index.php?com=items&task=showin&offset=0&item=97

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  8. I got a perfect block for myself by using some really bad method in a class, and having the teacher finish it off by draping... So I've been using that for all my design work, obviously sewing only for myself. But I got Lucia MdeC from fashion-incubator's recommendation, and really like the sleeve which I developed from it.

    I guess if I was a good student I'd also use it to make another block and compare it to the one that fits me well :-), but frankly I'm too lazy. I prefer to concentrate on learning to use my block properly. The upshot is that I'm making fewer designs, repeating patterns more, but I'm a lot happier with my clothes.

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  9. I love your discussion of this drafting system and wish I'd discovered your blog sooner! I have a mini-collection of pattern cutting books that I've been slowly picking up over the last few years. And I recognize this is one of the things that people miss when first buying a pattern-making book, that there are so many different systems containing different results in fit. Some of these blocks have a very dated fit, with far too much ease for many tastes now. I'm trying to use Aldrich's books because the teaching format makes sense to me but not so sure about the blocks.

    Another book which I found interesting was European Cut by Elizabeth Allemong. It's geared toward home sewers and the drafts have no ease (almost like a moulage), but the sleeve and armscye drafts were a lot like the ones from the Lucia Mors book. I wish she'd written another book on how to develop blocks from these because I liked the fit.

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    1. Thanks for the tip about the European Cut book. It definitely seems worth checking out.

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  10. Hi,
    I have just bought the Patternmaking in Fashion book because I wanted to find out a bit about the famous M. Müller & Sohn system and my Deutsch ist nicht sehr gut. I am having some problems with it however. e.g. the Bust Width formula on p27 of "1/4 BU % 4 cm". I know in English the formula should use BC not BU, and % is supposed to stand for minus, but even so the formula still does not give the results shown in the table on p33!

    There definitely is a pattern in the table:
    (BC 80 / 4) - BW 16.6 = 3.4
    (BC 84 / 4) - BW 17.4 = 3.6
    (BC 88 / 4) - BW 18.2 = 3.8
    i.e as the BC goes up by 4cm the answer goes up by 0.2 or 5%, but this is not explained by the above formula.

    I'd love to know more about the M. Müller & Sohn, like you am a bit of a nerd, and this problem is driving me nuts:)

    Re. your question at the top, I've been researching a lot of old drafting ("cutting") books doing searches on this website:

    http://archive.org/search.php?query=subject%3A%22Tailoring%20%28Women%27s%29%20%5Bfrom%20old%20catalog%5D%22

    Despite being over 100 years old I find them much easier to understand!

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  11. Thank you for the great link. Will definitely check out some of the books on that site.

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