I would really like to get into sewing stretch, because I think it would be an easy and quick way of making some very wearable garments. I can't live without t-shirts and tank tops and making my own will stop me from buying bad-quality, cheap H&M tops and the like. I do not have a serger or overlocker but my sewing machine has pretty good options for stretch seams so it should be easy enough.
I also have several kinds of stretch fabrics at home that I bought on various sales, some of which have been in my fabric stash for ages. I bought this stripey knit from a lovely German couple who sold stuff out of their garage in a tiny little picturesque town in Lower Austria:
I also have a largish piece of grey knit with unindentifiable fiber content:
Both these pieces are probably suited more for winter. My latest conquest is a meter of this beautiful coral-colored cotton jersey:
The grey and coral fabrics are not very stretchy and I’m really unsure about how stretchy fabric has to be for certain designs. I will probably err on the safe side and use the these ones for a more woven-type pattern.
The thing I’m concerned about when sewing with stretch is how to get seams and interfacings and all that jazz right, without having seams, necklines or hems stretch and wrinkle and look awfully home-sewn. I bought Sew U: Home Strech ages ago but don’t think this book is a good resource at all. It comes with a couple of basic patterns, which you can alter into various designs, as shown and explained in the book. However, the book has no information on seam stabilizers, interfacings or other tricky little details. There are also no pictures in it at all, only illustrations, which makes it difficult to assess what the designs would look like in fabric and what fabric would be best to choose. I have never used the book and am considering to e-bay it off.
Instead I would really like to buy a good resource for sewing with stretch and knit fabrics, but don’t know which book would be good. Do any of you have recommendations? Books or online resources? What about The Stretch & Sew Guide to Sewing on Knits, which looks terribly eighties?
The Stretch & Sew book is very good. I like it because it presents the techniques in a way that enables you to apply them without depending so much on commercial patterns.
ReplyDeleteBut if you like photographs, I highly recommend Connie Long's book, Sewing with Knits. It is also newer than the S&S book and covers a wider variety of fabric types.
I just started working with knits, and I agree with you about the SEW U book - I like the first, one, but I was frustrated that the 2nd included no information on stabilizing, which is very, very important for knits.
ReplyDeleteI mostly used the Simplicity Sewing book (mine is from the 80s, but may be the current edition) for info on knits, along with internet resources.
I recommend using a twin needle for hems, if your machine can handle one. I think that's what made the difference between my last (unwearable) knit project, and my successful one. Good luck!
I have the sew u home stretch book and some of the patterns are a bit off - it's like they didn't proof read/test them before printing the book. For example the 'flashdance' jumper is TERRIBLE.
ReplyDeleteI got a good piece of advice with regards to sewing with stretch when i bought my machine - it has a lever for changing the pressure of the pressure foot. If you find that your fabric is stretching out and getting wavy when you sew it then if you have the option on your machine you should reduce the pressure of your presser foot, which should stop that stretching out.
I second the advice to use a twin needle if your machine can use it, it makes the world of difference for hems!
I don't have any books to recommend, but I do have some other hints:
ReplyDelete1. use a ballpoint or "stretch" sewing needle.
2. If you can, wind some "woolly nylon" onto your bobbin - don't let it wind on too tightly - by pass one of the tension guides and allow your hand to control the tension (this is not an essential - but quite useful - to get some stretchiness in your seams).
3. Stitch using a very slight zig zag setting - just a little move to the left and right will also allow your stitches to stretch.
4. Try to get some BIAS NON WOVEN fusible tape - VILENE brand makes it (among others) - iron it onto curves - neck etc. It is also useful to iron onto your hem areas (the wrong side where your stitching line will be) - it stabilises the area before you topstitch with a twin needle.
Also, if the fabric isn't fraying or curling badly, don't stress about overlocking.
Good luck with it - there is nothing to be afraid of.
I'm also terrified of sewing with stretch. I avoid it wherever possible. The seams and the finishings always look really amateurish, no matter how careful I am.
ReplyDeleteHowever I really do think you need an overlocker for stretch.... And those stretch twin needles are very useful.
Hi! I have to admit, there are two things I really like about Sew U Homestretch - the message "just do it, don´t be terrified by stretch" and the varity of pattern that comes with it. Because of this book, I quickly started the stretch sewing adventure on my rather old sewing maschine and luckily all my projects went out well :)
ReplyDeleteBut yes, you´re right, there are almost no technical hints in it. That´s a lack.
Greetings and Good luck! Zuzsa
I agree about these new hip sewing books, they are completely devoid of important information, makes me nuts. With that said, Agreed about the the needle use and fusible stabilizer. Marcy Tilton is the T shirt goddess. check out her website marcytilton.com. SHe has tutorials as well as beautiful fabric! She has written some general sewing books as well but her skills are fierce.Then on the threads magazine website there are some articles there too about sewing with knits.
ReplyDeleteI see that this is a year old, but WHERE did you get that coral fabric. I have been looking for that color everywhere.
ReplyDeleteI'm sorry, but I really don't remember at all. I think it must have been a fabric shop in Vienna.
Deleteah shoot. thanks anyway!
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